Fitting Notes No. 14

The Concrete Silk overcoat is on its third prototype, and the shoulder is still wrong. The drawing wants a square, architectural line; the body — every body — wants a shelf that slopes. Fourteen fittings in, the compromise we have reached is not a compromise at all: a padded head that floats a centimeter above the shoulder point, so the line reads square while the arm moves free.

Fitting notes are the studio’s most honest documents. Sketches flatter; patterns lie by omission; the toile on a live model tells everything. We keep every note and re-read them at the start of each new outerwear program — they are a decade of arguments with gravity.